Stewart Island and other cool sights.

Yellow-eyed penguins!

Hangin' out in Moeraki north of Dunedin, a local told us that if we wanted to see yellow-eyed penguins, we should head over to this little cove with a hidden shelter at 6:10pm. We got there, settled in the shelter, opened up the shutters, and at precisely 6:10, this was what I saw paddling up the beach after a hard day's work hunting for food in the ocean: a pair of penguins! They proceeded to preen and shake and relax a little, then they headed into their nest in the flax bushes just off the beach.

The cove where the yellow-eyed penguins live.

Steward Island, around Port William Hut on the Rakiura Track. Anywhere you see eucalyptus trees is an old camp or settlement


Stewart Island tramping is known for its mud. Because the Rakiura Track is a great walk, long portions were boardwalked such as this to avoid the worst of the mud.

An unexpected flock of black swans in a little bay off the track!

Stewart Island is a peaceful, laid-back corner of the country. We did the three day Rakiura Track, which was quiet, mellow, and mostly sheltered from the wind and rain, which was prolific most of the time we were on the island. Stewart Island has got more kiwi birds than people, and the chances of seeing a kiwi are higher than any other part of NZ. I didn't see one, though I didn't try terribly hard. I figured if I was going to see one, it won't be due to my lurking around bushes at night. The little town of Oban has got the best fish and chips I've had, ever. The ferry ride from Bluff was an adventure in itself, with rough seas and huge swells. Lots of green faces and people throwing up. I stood in the front, watching all the action, and got through fine. Actually I thought it was great fun and really enjoyed the ride!

Doubtful Sound, Kepler, Routeburn/Greenstone

Southern coast on the way up to Te Anau from Invercargill.

Where Doubtful Sound meets the Tasman Sea. Fur seals hangin' out.

A pod of dolphins in Doubtful Sound having a grand time!



Me in Doubtful Sound.

The Hall Arm of Doubtful Sound, a most beautiful and tranquil place.

Scott on the summit of Mt. Luxmore, with gale force winds (not kidding), on the Kepler Track.

Me on Mt. Luxmore. Lake Te Anau below...and beautiful mountains everywhere.

Got to ride a helicopter for 30 seconds on the Routeburn Track...supposedly for avalanche danger. It was my first ride and it was short but exhilarating! (this pic is out of chronological order...should be below w/ Lake Harris)

Milford Sound and foreshore.

Southern Man is rough and tough and he makes stream crossings to get Speight's beer to his mates. He's kind of like a kiwi version of our Marlboro cowboy.

Routeburn River.

Routeburn Flats, where we camped the first night on the Routeburn Track. Must be one of the coolest campsites in the world.

Lake Harris. We had to take a helicopter between Lake Harris and Deadmans Gulch...a 30 sec flight.

Got some severe wind and rain! Lots of wet stuff, including the tent. Icicles actually forming before one's eyes...Thank goodness for this shelter at the Lake MacKenzie campsite.

Got some snow!

Scott crossin' one of the many wire bridges commonly encountered in NZ tramping.

Tiny little...orchid?

HUGE trout in pools in the Greenstone River. I dedicate this one to Karen and Rob! :)

Lotsa tramping: Mt. Aspiring NP

"Freedom" camping along the Matukituki River before heading into Mt. Aspiring NP.

Mt. Aspiring, flanked by Bonar Glacier: a stellar peak.

Rob Roy Glacier: enough water to last me a lifetime.

Liverpool Hut, first night's lodging. It's quite the adventure getting up there, and the views have got to be some of the most spectacular on earth (looks out across the valley to Mt. Aspiring when the sun decides to show). We had the entire hut to ourselves.

Me so happy that we're almost at Liverpool Hut. Don't be fooled by the smile; I was hurting inside.

(j/k, I loved it.)

The next day, it was onwards to French Ridge Hut, which meant going down the slickest stuff you could imagine (in the rain) and then going back up some of the steepest stuff that could still be legally called "hiking". Nice rainbows for distraction.

Finally, French Ridge Hut, where mountaineers who are climbing Mt. Aspiring stay. They wanted to know what we mere mortals were doing there. Lots of testosterone in there! The hut shook all night long through some of the strongest most consistent gale force winds I've experienced.

Lookin' up the valley.

Splendid lupines galore... Reminded me of Alaska, but even more shades of colour!

Mt. Cook on a clear morning. Back here to try Mueller Hut, but again twarted by weather. (the weather turned fine as we were leaving)

Lake Wanaka, looking towards Mt. Aspiring area.

Arthur's Pass: beautiful braided river valleys and...you guessed it...mountains! Part of the "spine" of the Southern Alps.

Back in Christchurch. Trolleys are dressed up for Christmas already...summer is in the air! (except today it's windy and kind of cold).

more soon...

I haven't written in a while. It's been a lot of tramping the past few weeks with just brief town breaks so there's limited internet access. Having a spectacular time in the backcountry and about to start another four day adventure tomorrow in Mt. Aspiring National Park. Hope to catch up with photos and descriptions within the next couple of weeks. Definitely by the time I get back to Christchurch near the end of the month. All's well and I'm even clean for the time being! Very good feeling. Hope YOU'RE all doing well!